RIO 22

Food poisoning is a strong deterrent for a return visit anywhere. I say that because I have twice been punished for dining at all-you-can-eat-buffet establishments. However, Brazilian Rodizio is one of those things that makes me say “Damn I wish I had invented that idea.” To me, high quality food prepared by chefs (instead of some $10/hr line cook who was accurately portrayed in the movie Waiting), doesn’t qualify in my stereotype of a buffet. And when they bring it out to the table instead of making you circumnavigate a rectangular table in some sort of restaurant version of musical chairs, I’ll take it. These mega-skewers filled with one meat at a time are brought out with the waiters wielding carving knives that look like they belong to Crocodile Dundee. That’s sweet. I want a knife that gigantic for my kitchen.

Thrice have I feasted on the Brazilian bbq, my most recent visit being the third. I had been to Rio 22 when it first opened with my father and step-mother and have been itching to go back because of the fond memories. And with a similar reminiscence from an experience in Atlanta, Georgia last summer, it was time to go back.

When we walked in, we were greeted by well-dressed, courteous hosts. As we walked to our table, I took notice that the restaurant was quite large, and had a very “open” feel to it. I think the extremely high ceilings contributed to it. I would describe the decor as a contemporary chic with a hint of art deco design. It was an attempt to be upscale without pretension. We were sat at a cozy table in the back corner of the main dining hall.

Our server greeted us in less than a minute and suggested drink specials. I glanced at the menu and considered an appetizer of shui mai or a lobster springroll. While they did seem tantalizing, I summoned up the intestinal fortitude to restrain myself. You see, that’s how they getcha. Like peanuts or snack mix at a bar to increase your alcohol consumption, appetizers at a rodizio place just elevate your bill. And even if you are onto their game, they’re smarter than your ability to resist hors d’oeuvres. He soon brought our a metal-woven cone/basket filled with French fries, fried bananas and pao de queigo. (Translated that means “cheese balls,” but it sounds much better in Portuguese.) I swear, I could eat a meal of just pao de quiego. They are bite-sized rounds of heaven.

Kristen and I both opted for the rodizio and salad bar combination. I was pleased at the freshness of all the ingredients of the salad bar, and even the hot dishes that outlined the perimeter of the room. I served myself a tiny portion of roasted vegetables and plantains, and some assorted cheeses. Kristen returned with some salad.

The server was incredibly attentive and brought our libations moments after we sat down. Captain Morgan & Ginger Ale for me, strawberry margarita with salt for Kristen. He also brought two vessels which were to be eaten with the meats: yucca flour and a tomato salsa vinaigrette.

I didn’t have to wait long for the caravan of waiter/samurais to start gracing us with their delicious meats. The first was an absolutely flavorful beef sirloin. It was slightly rarer than I would have liked, but I forgot about it when the seasonings hit my tongue. The second was our mutual favorite for the evening – skirt steak. My god! It had similar herbs and spices, but much juicer. The flavors hit many different taste buds, from sweet, to salty and certainly savory. Unfortunately, the next three offerings were uniformly unimpressive. The sirloin in garlic sauce was a disappointment because of my adulation for garlic. It was on the borderline of medium-well and as a result, you might as well have removed the flavor from it. The shish kabob was just plain and nothing stands out to me. The chicken was skin-on/bone in. I suspect that many people would have loved this because the meat was succulent and juicy, and the flavor was strong. I’m just not a fan of dark meat. Lamb came later, but neither of us tried it.

I also attempted and was pleased with each of the following: short ribs, roast beef, smoked filet mignon wrapped in bacon, spicy sausage, and bacon-wrapped turkey. All were very good.

I decided to go for gusto tonight. In the interest of food-bloggery, I attempted offal. I draw the “food-tasting-line” at very few things, but certain organs are out of the question: heart, brain, eyeballs, other kinds of balls, kidney, liver, tripe or sweetbreads. Amid our epicurean pillaging, the katana-blade brandishing meat-carver brought out a skewer of tiny, oval-shaped obscurities. Informed it was a chicken heart, my eyes widened and turned to Kristen who gave me the subtle “if that ends up on my plate, I’ll crucify you" look. It sat on my plate long enough to make anyone reconsider, but I cut it in half and took a nibble…. Let me put it to you this way: later on in the dinner, I had the audacity to ask the waiter if people actually enjoyed it.

Located on Route 22 West in Union, NJ and just a short drive to or from the GSP, Rio 22 is cleverly situated to attract clientele of all kinds. Formerly the Japanese staple Shiki, it has been retooled, reimagined and carved into a a dining niche for all to enjoy. Rio 22 is trendy and delicious. It can be pricey for two people, but worth it if you don’t make a habit of it. Rio 22 also offers an extensive sushi menu in a risky but successful attempt at cuisine fusion.

But in a category all its own, rodizio remains a culinary quagmire because it manages to appeal to the gastronome and the chowhound simultaneously. That is very hard to do, but they seem to do it flawlessly.

-Dave