Cubanu

This most recent visit was my third to Cubanu; a restaurant located in downtown Rahway, New Jersey. Unfortunately, the third time was definitely not a charm, because it was overtly contradictory to the first two experiences I had there.

Home to David Drake, a restaurant with a spectacular reputation and tremendous press, Rahway has integrated new restaurants and residential developments in a clear municipal vision. Cubanu represents what can come out of an urban city undergoing aggressive gentrification.

This restaurant seems to highlight authentic Cuban-cuisine sensibilities but puts its own spin on it. It does seem to respect traditions but takes risks that I can usually appreciate. Their lounge plays jazz, salsa and typical music during the evening hours and I like. As a bonus, they even offer salsa lessons during the week.

The second time my wife and I visited, I ordered the same thing: Pollo Babalu – chicken breast stuffed with chorizo, maduros and goat cheese. It was served over a black bean puree. It was fantastic and extremely enjoyable. My wife felt the same way about her entrée, but I can’t remember what she ate. Regardless, I was thrilled to go back for the trifecta.

I was with a party of eight this time; six co-workers and my wife. We began with several tapas: croquetas, bacalitos, garlic shrimp and empanadas. Each appetizer was very satisfying and well prepared. The croquetas are minced ham and potato in a fried ball. It was nicely seasoned. The bacalitos are nothing more than cod fritters. I was happy to have try but was disappointed because I found them bland. The garlic shrimp was delicious and there seemed to be a collective feeling that the empanadas were merely average. They were, quite simply, forgettable.

For our meals, two friends ordered the Masitas (pork cubes friend with a garlic and onion mojo). One friend ordered the Mambo King (pork chops). My wife ordered the Camaron Enchilado (spicy garlic shrimp), and I ordered the Swordfish special. I can’t remember the last meal that was ordered.

Unfortunately, the feeling from the appetizers carried over to the meal. With the exception of my wife, everyone felt their proteins were almost universally dry and collectively disappointing. I was able to try both pork dishes and I felt that both sauces would have brought out incredible flavors had the meat not been overcooked. But due to the its dryness, it seemed more like an attempt to overcompensate for the ill preparation than a way to maximize an appropriate flavor profile.

My wife’s tiger shrimp was delicious. It came in a savory tomato sauce and was served with well cooked white rice. However, it was much to spicy for her and neither the menu nor the server were forthright about it’s intensity. That is a careless oversight. Regrettably, the spice was too overwhelming for my wife. And this is a spice that hits you a the end. On a positive note, I enjoyed it tremendously because, like the garlic shrimp appetizer, the shellfish were well prepared. She, as the case with all eight of us, did not enjoy our individual dishes.

For me, I was torn between the whole red snapper and the swordfish special. Truth be told, I wanted the red snapper but went with the servers recommendation for the special. I went with the special because my previous two experiences were positive, despite the fact that I ate the same thing the first two times. I was confident I would be impressed.

All of our dishes contained rice and most had somewhat sloppy presentations. My rice came in a pyramid shape but was falling apart upon arrival. I felt this poor execution indicated a lack of refinement and erroneous attention to detail. I had two swordfish filets which contained grill marks and a signature sauce. One filet was well prepared and the second was dry and chewy. This inconsistency was disappointing to say the least.

We spent nearly $350 for all eight of us. A few had cocktails and the rest had sodas or water. I can’t complain about the price because I feel it was not expensive. But with collective disapproval from poor preparation, I am discouraged. More than anything, I am upset about the inconsistency. For a restaurant to establish a stellar reputation, it needs to maintain constancy. I am not persuaded for a fourth visit.