Colossal amounts of traffic aren’t enough to deter me from trying a place, but it can certainly discourage a return visit. So after driving for nearly ninety minutes for a ride that should have taken twenty-five, my objectivity had been overshadowed by frustrations. Nevertheless, a total of five others agreed to tag along as we continue to become experienced gourmands.
The Atlantic Chip Shop has media and Zagat ratings to support its reputation. Time Out magazine ranked it the best “fish and chips” in New York. Located on Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn, NY, this is the sister store to the flagship restaurant (named the Park Slope Chip Shop) on Fifth avenue (also in Brooklyn). Festooned with all things British, this pub was covered with seemingly unsurprising memorabilia. The Union Jack was found in countless spots and while I’ve never traveled across the pond, it seemed authentic. This establishment is definitely a departure from the banality of our standard United States bar, which often lacks American regalia.
The restaurant’s flare was not overshadowed by the expected menu fare. Predictably, UK staples such as bangers and mash, steak and kidney pie, ploughman’s lunch, Scottish eggs, Sheppard’s pie, and of course fish and chips, all attracted our attention.
For an appetizer, I ordered the deep fried pizza ($3.50). I never thought of frying that either, but since this is a food frying paradise, it was worth a shot. Two slices arrived and I was ecstatic. I looked around the table to apprehensive faces, ignored the screams of horror from my arteries and dug in. The cheese was oozy and melty. The crunch of the fry batter was fantastic. It wasn’t too greasy and you could taste all of the components of the pizza slices. We passed it around, and the trepidation soon turned to pleasant surprise. Everyone enjoyed it.
Dry Blackthorn Cider
The Chip Shop also offers numerous microbrews so I tried their Dry Blackthorn Cider ($6). That was very good, and comparable to any of the alcoholic ciders you may find. This British version of cider was light and sweet and it did hit the spot. Beer enthusiasts might hesitate to classify it as a “beer,” and I would agree. But for a seldom drinker like myself, it was satisfactory.
All of the adults ordered fish and chips. Three of us ordered the cod ($12.00), and I ordered the haddock ($12.75). From an aesthetic standpoint, they are indistinguishable once they are fried, but the tastes are different. The cod is lighter and flakier, where the haddock was thicker and heavier. However, both were excellent. The fry batter didn’t get soggy and adhered to the fish well. I would have preferred that they let it drain just slightly, but I have a feeling they wished to get it out to us piping hot. You could also tell that the fish were lightly seasoned once they were taken out of the fryer as well. A dash of malt vinegar before every few bites made each mouthful sing brightly.
Each of the chips (French fries) were good. They weren’t huge steak fries or curly fries you’ll find at a hot dog stand. They weren’t perfectly crisp nor were they soggy. The chips were simply crisp and moist; more importantly appetizing. They served well as the supporting cast member of the dish, so that the fish remained the star. It was a complement and I prefer it that way.
The kids all ordered macaroni and cheese ($6). Served with a side of peas, this was a large portion for a kid of any size and shape. While this dish is standard comfort food fare, I found it rather impressive. It may be difficult to differentiate this mac n cheese from the kind you would find at a barbeque, but there are subtleties. The chef wouldn’t reveal the secret blend of cheeses that was used, but I didn’t detect any sharp cheddar or pungent bleu cheeses. The broiler had created a light golden crust of cheese on the top which added depth to the flavor profile. Each bite made you want even more. While the adults absolutely raved, the kids were less passionate. “The cheese seemed as if it wasn’t all melted” and “the taste seemed weird” were common responses to the British interpretation.
Our dessert round was where I amplified my likelihood of having bypass surgery. One of the trademarks of Chip Shop is that they will fry one any packaged good. And expectedly, that range will cover the creative to the disgusting; wherever you imagination takes you. We stuck with the menu offerings: A fried Snickers bar, fried Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups, apple/black berry crumble with custard and two rice puddings. We decided against fried Twinkies, fried Oreos or fried Twix.
Served in a small, white bowl, the apple/black berry crumble was tremendous. The presentation was clean and neat. Not overly sweet, the custard provided a smooth complement to the sweet and plump berries. I also liked this dessert because it fits what I would think belongs on this menu. It was classy, uncompromising and but also simple. I would recommend this to others.
Fried Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups (two of them), came with dusting of powdered sugar. It was enjoyable, but for some reason, I was expecting the peanut butter to have been softened due to the deep fryer. And while I did enjoy it, it was just ok. The chocolate did manage to melt and provide a divine texture.
The fried Snickers bar puts you on cloud nine. The heat of the deep fryer creates a creamy interior of caramel and nougat. Different textures of crunch are experienced when you bite through the fry batter and into peanuts. I like it when the desserts like this are offered because it seems like a departure from the type of fare you’d expect in a British pub. And while that may not always work for the clientele, it fits here. It was unbelievable and the most popular dessert at the table.
Our server was kind enough to remind us that the rice pudding was served warm, and therefore not the bowl of poorly executed gelatinous goop you might find in careless diner. Everyone enjoyed the rice pudding, but a sweet touch could have enhanced it for my tastes. The warmth of the dish brought it distinction and was unobjectionable. However, I would probably pass on it next time.
Service was very good. Our server, who may have been the proprietor, was personable and amusing. He was kind enough to tell us about the success and joked about the things he has been asked to fry.
Dante may have had it wrong. One of the Circles of Hell should certainly have been fried food. It’s the culinary quagmire I find myself in more times than I choose to admit. It’s what makes Paula Deen’s recipes so mindboggling, and keeps fitness clubs in business.
For seven people, the total bill was an extraordinarily reasonable $117 before tip. I would certainly go there again, but probably on an annual basis. I was impressed with the whole experience and recommend it to others. The adventure was accompanied with a $115 parking ticket, because apparently, bus stops extend the length of a half city block now.
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