Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Cubanu

This most recent visit was my third to Cubanu; a restaurant located in downtown Rahway, New Jersey. Unfortunately, the third time was definitely not a charm, because it was overtly contradictory to the first two experiences I had there.

Home to David Drake, a restaurant with a spectacular reputation and tremendous press, Rahway has integrated new restaurants and residential developments in a clear municipal vision. Cubanu represents what can come out of an urban city undergoing aggressive gentrification.

This restaurant seems to highlight authentic Cuban-cuisine sensibilities but puts its own spin on it. It does seem to respect traditions but takes risks that I can usually appreciate. Their lounge plays jazz, salsa and typical music during the evening hours and I like. As a bonus, they even offer salsa lessons during the week.

The second time my wife and I visited, I ordered the same thing: Pollo Babalu – chicken breast stuffed with chorizo, maduros and goat cheese. It was served over a black bean puree. It was fantastic and extremely enjoyable. My wife felt the same way about her entrĂ©e, but I can’t remember what she ate. Regardless, I was thrilled to go back for the trifecta.

I was with a party of eight this time; six co-workers and my wife. We began with several tapas: croquetas, bacalitos, garlic shrimp and empanadas. Each appetizer was very satisfying and well prepared. The croquetas are minced ham and potato in a fried ball. It was nicely seasoned. The bacalitos are nothing more than cod fritters. I was happy to have try but was disappointed because I found them bland. The garlic shrimp was delicious and there seemed to be a collective feeling that the empanadas were merely average. They were, quite simply, forgettable.

For our meals, two friends ordered the Masitas (pork cubes friend with a garlic and onion mojo). One friend ordered the Mambo King (pork chops). My wife ordered the Camaron Enchilado (spicy garlic shrimp), and I ordered the Swordfish special. I can’t remember the last meal that was ordered.

Unfortunately, the feeling from the appetizers carried over to the meal. With the exception of my wife, everyone felt their proteins were almost universally dry and collectively disappointing. I was able to try both pork dishes and I felt that both sauces would have brought out incredible flavors had the meat not been overcooked. But due to the its dryness, it seemed more like an attempt to overcompensate for the ill preparation than a way to maximize an appropriate flavor profile.

My wife’s tiger shrimp was delicious. It came in a savory tomato sauce and was served with well cooked white rice. However, it was much to spicy for her and neither the menu nor the server were forthright about it’s intensity. That is a careless oversight. Regrettably, the spice was too overwhelming for my wife. And this is a spice that hits you a the end. On a positive note, I enjoyed it tremendously because, like the garlic shrimp appetizer, the shellfish were well prepared. She, as the case with all eight of us, did not enjoy our individual dishes.

For me, I was torn between the whole red snapper and the swordfish special. Truth be told, I wanted the red snapper but went with the servers recommendation for the special. I went with the special because my previous two experiences were positive, despite the fact that I ate the same thing the first two times. I was confident I would be impressed.

All of our dishes contained rice and most had somewhat sloppy presentations. My rice came in a pyramid shape but was falling apart upon arrival. I felt this poor execution indicated a lack of refinement and erroneous attention to detail. I had two swordfish filets which contained grill marks and a signature sauce. One filet was well prepared and the second was dry and chewy. This inconsistency was disappointing to say the least.

We spent nearly $350 for all eight of us. A few had cocktails and the rest had sodas or water. I can’t complain about the price because I feel it was not expensive. But with collective disapproval from poor preparation, I am discouraged. More than anything, I am upset about the inconsistency. For a restaurant to establish a stellar reputation, it needs to maintain constancy. I am not persuaded for a fourth visit.

Sunday, March 7, 2010

Daisy May's BBQ

Like most Tri-State Area residents, I believe I am a great driver. Therefore, I scoff at the very existence of other automobile operators everywhere. Frequently navigating gridlock traffic apparently makes it unjustifiable for why people will drive at (or just below) the speed limit.

Of course, this sense of entitlement to a “king of the road” attitude, authorizes me to drive anywhere. Putting aside the notion that my argument is irrational, I believe this warrants continuation in my epicurean investigations.

As such, my most recent restaurant review comes from Daisy May’s BBQ in New York. I was with my brothers and father this time so we were able to happily eat like slobs; free of spousal judgments.

Located on the corner of 11th Avenue & West 46th St, this barbeque joint is probably the third most famous restaurant I’ve ever blogged about (Pat’s/Geno’s and Primanti Brothers). It is certainly the best barbeque I have ever eaten. And after this time, I look forward to see who will remove it from the it’s pedestal.

It was featured on Food Network’s The Best Thing I Ever Ate and has been Zagat Rated for the last 5 straight years. Since it was incomprehensibly left off of Travel Channel’s Top 100 Places to Chowdown Countdown, I begin to question the credibility of that show.

I guess I didn’t pay close attention to the TV program because I did not realize Daisy May’s uses family style tables; a practice of which I am not a fan. Perhaps it’s a throwback to southern barbeque or their way of maintaining authenticity. Regardless, I have no desire to rub shoulders with someone I never met before. But as you will see throughout this review, it doesn't matter.

The building is smaller than you might imagine and there is a single dining room with flat screen TV’s mounted on the walls. So if you are by yourself or are enjoying the food more than your date, you have something else you can view. Again..none of this matters.

You place your order at a counter and get two of their incredible side dishes. I like ordering at a counter because, at least for me, you feel more involved with your order. I don’t know why that matters, but at that moment, it did. My older brother and my father both ordered the jumbo beef rib. Yes, that was singular. And for good reason. When the rib is delivered, I started thinking of the town of Bedrock. Completely gigantic and perfectly cooked, I know realize that the monstrosity that tipped over Fred Flintstone’s car was now sitting on the plates across and adjacent to me. For a visual, it was almost as long as a paper towel roll. It was absolutely perfect. The meat was falling off the bone and blissfully succulent. The textural contrast between the crispy outside and tender, fall-apart meat is to die for.

I ordered the brisket. I expected sliced brisket drenched in a signature sauce. They slid my tray to me with my food on it. Served in the same container you’d get to-go Wonton Soup in at your local Chinese restaurant, the brisket was aromatic albeit a small portion than I expected. I wanted a portion comparable to the Brontosaurus rib my brother was devouring. It didn’t matter. Nor did it matter that the brisket isn’t sliced but chopped. And while I would have liked it sliced, the flavor is marvelous. Occasionally, barbeque is ruined because the meats are overdressed with sauces that take the dish one step beyond assertive flavors. This does not happen here. The brisket is far more filling than the portion would suggest, and it does it gradually enough where you don’t get stuffed too soon into the meal. I very quickly forgot it was served to me in a plastic container.

In terms of beverages, I also ordered the sweat tea which came in a thirty-two ounce mason jar. That rocks. It coincides with their unapologetic but original approach to food service.

My oldest brother ordered the Memphis dry rub ribs. They too, were fantastic. It seemed fitting he would order the dry rub because he has made ribs in a similar preparation at cookouts. And while I am not a fan of smoked ribs, this particular rack could have easily made me a believer.

I have not forgotten about the side dishes because quite frankly, they need a paragraph of their own. The macaroni and cheese is not the best I have ever eaten, but it was a seamless complement and appropriate side dish for barbeque. And all four of us wanted that as our side. The baked beans with burnt ends were delicious. The beans evoked flavors that epitomized “low and slow” and really demonstrates how attention can truly transform an ingredient. My father also ordered the collard greens which he said were rich in flavor and delectable. I have never been a fan of collard greens, however, like the dry rub ribs, these were pretty darn appetizing and almost made me a believer.

As is the case with many of the places I have visited in the interest of chowhoundery, Daisy May’s discards visual aesthetics, a waist staff, cozy dining sections and formal dinnerware in lieu of confidence. I love that attitude. They believe you will like their food so much that they can serve it to you in the restaurant-equivalent of a loin cloth. The food is that darn good. You will forget any nuances the most nitpicky, burgeoning food-writer would notice and just be taken to another place when you bite into the food.

The bar has been raised for barbeque. Until you have eaten at Daisy May’s and can say with certainty you know a better place, I have discovered the barbeque paradise. This place trounces your favorite. Period.

- Dave