Lorenzo's

In the tri-state area, Italian restaurants are as easy to find as diners or fast-food joints. As always, the key is finding those which stand out. And Union County is particularly chock full of them. For a quick dinner, we wanted to try somewhere new. We ended up in the next town over at a place a co-worker recommended.



We landed at Lorenzo's in Garwood, NJ. As it turns out, I had actually been there years before with my mother, but had completely forgotten about it. That wasn't a good sign. Either way, we were sat against the wall in a small four-top in the dining room.

Service was somewhat slow. It took the waitress several minutes to come to our table and take our drink orders. By the time she arrived, enough time had accumulated for us to select our appetizers. This was bothersome because the restaurant was not busy and there was no way we could have crashed the kitchen.


Side Salad

Our appetizers were garlic bread with cheese ($3) and a side salad I received with my entree. Like wontons with duck sauce at a Chinese restaurant, I'm starting to realize that menu items such as garlic bread are going to be pretty much the same anywhere. And unless you completely screw it up, you won't be dazzled from place tp place. That being said, we were satisfied with the garlic bread.

For our meal, my wife ordered two appetizers (caesar salad and the mozzarella & carozza), I ordered veal francese, and my stepdaughter ordered mozzarella sticks.


Mozarella and Carozza

I really, really liked that they used fresh mozzarella for the Carozza. Not only was it excellent but it made it memorable. That's often the barometer for a return visit; that and it not being horrendous. When it arrived I was unimpressed with the presentation. Traditionally, this dish is basically like a fried grilled cheese; the mozarella is between bread, battered and fried. This was a single slice of bread topped with the cheese battered and fried. What results is a different interpretation of a common dish. As we were eating it, we realized there was a distinct difference in the mozarella cheese in the garlic bread versus the one in the carozza. I thought it might be that it uses fresh mozarella. I was correct and it really makes a noticeable difference in texture and flavor.

My wife felt that the caesar salad was very tasty, however, it was completely overdressed. The tang from the dressing was certainly a highlight, but it should have been less. I found that the Romaine lettuce was fresh and crisp, but overpowered by their dressing.


Veal Scaloppine Francese

Much like lamb, veal has only recently begun to grow on me. I ordered the veal scaloppine francese ($16.25). I wanted veal, but since their menu was limited to simple and classical recipes, I ordered something I've never had before but understood the probable flavor profile. The meat was delicate and evenly cooked. The batter was light and adhered well. I found that there was a good balance between the tartness and richness of the lemon sauce. I was satisfied but not overly impressed. The dish was served with potatoes and spinach. The potatoes were crispy and the spinach was good, however both were greasy with too much oil. The starch from the potatoes would have been a better complement to the dish had they been slightly drained.


Mozzarella Sticks

It is hard to avoid redundancy here, but the mozzarella sticks were garden variety. Cheesey and crunchy, they performed their task as a means of satiation. The marinara sauce, while untouched, was a good flavor contrast.

One of the things I did not like about the restaurant was its layout. For some reason, sound really carries in this relatively small restaurant and I could eavesdrop more than I would want to. There is also an unnecessary door that you have to walk through to get to the dining room which is completely open.

I can't figure out if this meal was boring because the dishes were safe and what everybody gets or if the restaurant as a whole was wholly commonplace and routine. It does have some highlights with the carozza, but those are disproportionate to the overall experience.

The bill was $45 before tip.

Rating: Satisfactory Recommendation - nothing to write home about

Luciano's

When my wife and I are in the mood for a good quality meal but can't decide, it is always either sushi or Italian. And we have our go-to locations as well. Either way, part of my epicurean adventures includes looking for something just different. Not so much altering interpretations of dishes, but more along the lines of ones I've never seen before. It's finding that line between traditional/authentic fare and risky organ-focused dishes. Invariably however, my indecisiveness forces me to choose menu items I'm comfortable with.

This time, we opted for a slightly more upscale, not-so-kid-friendly, but not uber-fancy spot. We chose an Italian restaurant in Rahway, NJ. As previously mentioned (see Cubanu 3/17/10), this city is on the verge of turning itself around. I was recently turned-on to a deli that serves the most unbelievable chorizo-tacos around. More on that another time. Tonight's review is certainly one for the gastronome.

Luciano's is a place where we've previously dined and thoroughly enjoyed it. In the initial visit, our party was fortunate enough to have been seated by the fireplace. While some found the heat overbearing, I expertly positioned myself at the table so, for me, the ambiance was simply delightful. This time we were sat in the opposing dining room, without the dragon's-breath hearth adjacent to our two-top.


Spinach and Cheese Fondue

After being served the traditional fresh bread, our server took a drink order. For our appetizers, we decided on the spinach and cheese fondue ($8). It came served in corning ware fondue pot and focaccio crostini surrounding it. Truthfully, the bright green of the dish makes it aesthetically hesitant. Nevertheless, any trepidations were dismissed once we tried it. I was pleased that there was grainy residue from the spinach and that the cheese was melted perfectly. I can appreciate their personal touch of using focaccia versus a standard french bread as the base for their crostini.


Ricotta Gnocchi

Perhaps it's my naievete and culinary inexperience, but I expected an alternative flavor profile with the ricotta gnocchi with bolognese ($17). While it did achieve the anticipated lightness (comparable to potato gnocchi), it did not stand out. I got the "I've had this before" sense. It was as if someone simply took stuffed shells of manicotti and presented it in different form. Using the same ingredients in an alternative presentation did not yield something new and exciting, which was disappointing. Most disheartening was their bolognese sauce. Typically, bolognese is a Ragù made with wine and milk or cream. It can be thick and also velvety smooth. The sauce that was served on this dish was basically just vodka sauce (similar base ingredients but with vodka) with ground beef in it. This created an imbalance to the dish which I felt weakened its authenticity as both an Italian dish and the restaurant's uniqueness. And while my wife and I agreed that this was nothing special, I was satisfied with the dish.


Horseradish Crusted Filet

Despite being significantly less of a risk taker than me, she took a partial leap ordering a filet crusted with horseradish ($29). I was impressed she took this chance and she felt the reward. Upon trying her perfectly prepared medium rare, I noticed that great care was taken to put symmetrical grill marks on the steak. The anticipated contrast found between the seared edges and the chewy interior was present and excellent. Furthermore, I found that the grill marks had even been made on the end that had the horseradish topping on it; an indication of attention to detail. I really appreciate that.


Spinach

The sauteed spinach ($5) was excellent. We tend to order this side dish at Italian restaurants and steakhouses due to the abundance of garlic in the preparation. We found that this dish was as good as you will find. The spinach was not mealie or grainy, a characteristic all too common in poor preparation. The garlic infused it well, and it was tasty.


Warm Banana Bread Pudding

For dessert, my wife ordered the Warm Banana Bread pudding ($7.50). It was incredible. This dessert was comparable to the Whiskey bread pudding we ate in Pittsburgh (see The Carlton 2010) which we absolutely loved. The warmth and generally mild flavor of the bread contrasted well with the sweet of the ice cream and tenderness of the bananas. Again, the attention to detail is noticeable because you can actually taste the depths of flavor here. The caramel drizzle not only accentuated the taste but also added flare to the refined presentation.

My dessert was the Mixed Fresh Berries, Tahitian Vanilla Crème Anglaise And Raspberry Coulis. If photo wasn't completely horrid, you would share in an absolutely elegant presentation. It was served in a light crisp shell and as fresh as can be. The cream was just delicious and the fruit was fresh and delicious. The pomegranate sorbet was a nice touch, but I usually find that particular fruit too tart. This time was no exception, however the other ingredients in the dish did well to balance it out.

Overall, this experience was excellent. We were thrilled that this experience was as consistent as the last. Luciano's is not a highly upscale joint, but we think it qualifies as a "nice" dinner.


Rating: Highly recommended

Fattal's Bakery

After an abysmal visit to a falafel house in NYC, I was eager to flush that experience from my system and replace it with authentic Lebanese/Syrian food. I knew that Paterson, New Jersey has a large Middle Eastern population and was home to several good restaurants.


Storefront

Home to the Great Waterfalls (congressionally established as a national park in 2009) and the focus of the 1989 film Lean on Me, Paterson has a rich history which is often overlooked because of a bad reputation. It's a shame because places like that are often where you find the hidden gems such as Fattal's Bakery, which is also doubles as a Middle Eastern supermarket. My brother recommended this place so he and my sister-in-law joined me for this excursion.


Spread of food

The overall amount of food looked much bigger than it actually was. For three people, this is very reasonable. If you'll notice, the falafel are not actually in spheres, but more similar to donut shape. We were given a stack of pita bread which went quickly, to say the least.


Spinach Pie

These spinach pies ($0.99 each) could have been just a tad warmer, but they were delicious. They weren't wrapped in blasphemous phyllo dough as I had recently. The dough was fluffy, soft and warm. Inside, the spinach was perfectly cooked and took me back to the ones I've had in really great restaurants. Cut into the traditional triangle shape, each pie has onions, lemon juice and spices, absent to the traditional pine nuts but absolutely delicious.


Falafel

We were fortunate enough that the lady behind the counter made our falafel fresh and to order. She expertly rolled the fava beans and ground chick peas into donut shaped delights. Each of the other ingredients, garlic, parsley and spices held up perfectly to the deep fryer. I was absolutely blown away. They were soft and chewy on the inside while being delicately crisp on the outside. Served with tomato, tahini, pickled vegetables and pita bread, I was speechless. I fully acknowledge that this is a bold statement, but these were, by far, the best falafel I have ever eaten. They even made my sister-in-law, who is not necessarily the culinary risk taker, a beliver. And the price (6 for $2.50) made it even better. In truth, I can't guarantee that the falafel will be always be made to order, but it was so good it seemed like a special treat. It was as good as a mother slipping you a cookie before dinner.


Kufta Kabob

I'm not sure of the price, but I think it was less than $5. These two skewers of ground beef and lamb were excellent. In each bite I was able to taste the char from the grill which was intensified through its parsley, garlic and onions. I preferred to top them with the cucumber and yogurt mixture which was fantastic. The cooling effect works wonders on your palate. You may also find the alternate spellings kofta or kafta on other menus.


Grape Leaves and Baked Kibbi

When you try sushi for the first time, everyone says you should try a California roll first to ease your way in. The same is true with grape leaves (also known as dolmas or wara' enab) when first attempting Lebanese food. Stuffed with lamb, rice, garlic, parsley and lemon juice, each grape leaf is carefully rolled. Then they are cooked in olive oil and steamed to perfection. Plumpness is always a determining factor in the amount of rice and meat is inside. These were somewhat skinny, but still very good. They were dense and tasty; a far cry from the flimsy and oily ones I had a few weeks ago. We paid $7 for a full pound. Important note: Excluding the Lenten-version, if your grape leaves don't have meat, then they aren't Lebanese.

Baked kibbi (also spelled kibbe or kibbeh) is another personal favorite. Shaped like tiny footballs, this is a combination of ground lamb and beef rolled with walnuts, onions and bulgur. Although not in this case, baked kibbi is usually served with yogurt. These baked kibbi were warm and scrumptious. A single order included four pieces ($6.99) and we devoured them almost immediately. I created small sandwiches by stuffing them into pita and topping them with tahini. They were not the best I have ever eaten, but they certainly were far from the worst.


Meat Pie

We all agreed that these meat pies (aka sfiha) were slightly different than other meat pies we've had before. Generally, they are shaped in small squares with the same dough that it used in spinach pies and served in an open-face preparation. These were in a more traditional "pizza" arrangement. We ordered two six-inch meat pies ($1.50 each) which were cut into quarters. These were our least favorite of all of the items we ate. However, If this was the worst of the bunch, then other places must take heed.


Cucumber and Yogurt

Many cultures have a condiment that is used as either a palate cleanser or cooler. As an example. Greeks use tzatziki and Northern Indians use raita. I love this condiment because it provides a textural contrast between smooth and crunchy which enhances most dishes it tops. This condiment is not to be confused with labneh which is a strained and thick yogurt that often accompanies grape leaves.


Harissa Cake

Middle Eastern cuisine utilizes rose water in many different dishes. I can't stand it. To me, eating a food with rose water tastes like I'm eating women's perfume. It isn't for me. This cake (aka basbousa) was made with semolina flour, honey, butter, pine nuts and flavored with - possibly marinated in -rose water. It was perfectly moist and correctly prepared. The rose water overpowered the whole dessert and took away from the other ingredients. My father, a huge fan of rosewater, would truly enjoy this almond-topped dessert.


Baklava and Lady Fingers

The baklava and lady fingers are very similar desserts in terms of ingredients and preparation. They do differ in presentation. Both are made with pistachio or walnuts, layered in phyllo and topped with honey or syrup. I didn't think I would have room for it, but I tried one of each. They were an excellent conclusion to the meal.

For the three of us, the total bill (including 2 Snapples and a soda) came to $40. This was one of the better culinary experiences and certainly makes my NY trip forgettable. If you are willing to take a trip to Paterson, it is definitely worth it.

Rating: Highly Recommended

Casa Seabra Restaurant

It is disappointing when you eat at a restaurant you believe is very good, only to discover that there are others that serve so much better versions of that same food that it turns out the first place stunk comparatively. Such is the case here.

I work in an area where Portuguese food is in abundance and therefore, I frequently dine on the cuisine. I am in no way an expert on Portuguese food, but I've eaten a variety of the dishes, so I think I have a handle on the correct flavors and techniques that are commonly used in the cuisine.

Portuguese food has its roots in Mediterranean cuisine and is strongly influenced by Spanish cooking. It utilizes corriander, parsley, tons of garlic and saffron among others. Rice and seafood are a huge staple in the culture and economy. All of these factors are a formula for culinary success in my book.

Seabra's Armory and Restaurant in Perth Amboy, NJ has many positives going for it; reputation, extensive menu and ambience. Located on Raritan Bay overlooking Staten Island, this former World War 1 and 2 naval ammunitions depot was restored beautifully. The armory is actually home to two locations under Seabra ownership; Casa Seabra Restaurant and Seabra's Armory Banquet Facility. Both are kept in excellent condition, which adds to the incredible ambience of it.

Until we sat down, I was unaware that they served rodizio. In the interest of good journalism, I ordered it not only because I enjoy it, but to compare it to previous experiences (see Rio 22 - 8/24/09).

That being said, it may be unfair to compare Seabra's to Rio 22 (now called Rio Rodizio) because the latter is not technically a Portuguese restaurant. They are strictly Brazilian barbeque and sushi. Additionally, Rio overlooks one of the most dangerous and congested highways in New Jersey, so the exterior location is an aesthetic tragedy.

My three friends each ordered paella ($23 each). Historically, paella (also spelled paelha) is traditionally a Spanish dish from the Valencia region of Spain. Served in large gray pots, this casserole is a seafood combination of lobster, clams, mussels, shrimp and scallops with chicken, pork and Portuguese sausage. Two friends ordered the paella Valenciana and the other was Marinara (also spelled Marinheira) which is the seafood only version. Both are served in yellow, saffron rice.


Paelha Valenciana


Paelha Marinara

Both paellas were excellent. As the dish is prepared, the individual seafood ingredients manage to absorb the flavors of the rice and stock, while maintaining their own integrity. The smaller shellfish were very well prepared. Surprisingly, they held up their individual flavors and moisture better than the lobster. I found that the lobster was slightly overdone. Perhaps a touch of butter would have basted the exterior just enough to evoke the flavor one would expect. The rice upheld a subtle "starchness" which was fantastic. The saffron, which can be a rather assertive flavor, was not overused and restrained enough so that it provided balance to the dish.


Rodizio Side Dishes

Where Rio 22 utilized sushi to appeal to a larger clientele, Seabra's focuses on a more precise Portuguese cuisine. Seabra's provides a more authentic rodizio starting with its side dishes. Collard greens, the palate-cleansing fried banana, French fries and lightly battered onion rings.

Rio 22 failed in that the skirt steak set the bar and the subsequent meats were not as good. Seabra's had more meats that were excellent rather than just one or two. In this case, the sausage, filet, sirloin, and short ribs were all tremendous.

The short ribs were utterly delicious; fall off the bone, juicy and flavorful. I suspect that any self-respecting churrascaria should certainly offer something like this. Even when the meat fell off the bone, the individual pieces kept crispy ends from where it was charred from the heat.

Filet wrapped in bacon is an expected offering in rodizio, but the novelty is beginning to wear off. I find that bacon takes away from the natural flavors of beef. I also find that in this preparation, the bacon never achieves a crispiness I look for when it's a side dish. When I removed the pork slices, I found the filet to be juicy, tender and delicious.

Part of their offerings also included chorizo (Portuguese sausage), which was fantastic. It was succulent and flavorful. I was very impressed. It was not overly spicy and the casing held it together beautifully. My friend reacted favorably to the sausage as well, which speaks volumes.

Turkey was dried out, as it often is. It could have benefited from a standard brine that would have kept the meat moist while still allowed for proper seasoning to draw out the flavor profile they wish to accomplish. The pork loin was the second meat that was delivered, while is was somewhat moist, I think it could have benefitted from an additional dash of seasoning.

Make no mistake, Rio 22 was good, but Seabra's is just better in every category. I did miss the gigantic carving knives that the servers at Rio used, but that had no bearing on the actual food itself. And, with two other locations in Jersey (both in Newark), Seabra's has established itself among top quality Portuguese restaurants across the state.

Following dinner we were treated to the pier that makes up the ambience for Seabras. Looking at all of the boats sleeping in their slips brought a very relaxing tone to the evening. As a big fan boats, I began to have delusions of a life at sea if I were independently wealthy. But as all things do, this too came to an end.

Dinner for the four of us, which included sodas, one glass of white sangria and 3 cappuccinos came to $160 after tip. I think forty dollars per person is reasonable.

Rating: Strongly Recommended

website: http://www.seabrasarmory.com/restaurant.html