Sunday, September 5, 2010

Fattal's Bakery

After an abysmal visit to a falafel house in NYC, I was eager to flush that experience from my system and replace it with authentic Lebanese/Syrian food. I knew that Paterson, New Jersey has a large Middle Eastern population and was home to several good restaurants.

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Storefront

Home to the Great Waterfalls (congressionally established as a national park in 2009) and the focus of the 1989 film Lean on Me, Paterson has a rich history which is often overlooked because of a bad reputation. It's a shame because places like that are often where you find the hidden gems such as Fattal's Bakery, which is also doubles as a Middle Eastern supermarket. My brother recommended this place so he and my sister-in-law joined me for this excursion.

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Spread of food

The overall amount of food looked much bigger than it actually was. For three people, this is very reasonable. If you'll notice, the falafel are not actually in spheres, but more similar to donut shape. We were given a stack of pita bread which went quickly, to say the least.

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Spinach Pie

These spinach pies ($0.99 each) could have been just a tad warmer, but they were delicious. They weren't wrapped in blasphemous phyllo dough as I had recently. The dough was fluffy, soft and warm. Inside, the spinach was perfectly cooked and took me back to the ones I've had in really great restaurants. Cut into the traditional triangle shape, each pie has onions, lemon juice and spices, absent to the traditional pine nuts but absolutely delicious.

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Falafel

We were fortunate enough that the lady behind the counter made our falafel fresh and to order. She expertly rolled the fava beans and ground chick peas into donut shaped delights. Each of the other ingredients, garlic, parsley and spices held up perfectly to the deep fryer. I was absolutely blown away. They were soft and chewy on the inside while being delicately crisp on the outside. Served with tomato, tahini, pickled vegetables and pita bread, I was speechless. I fully acknowledge that this is a bold statement, but these were, by far, the best falafel I have ever eaten. They even made my sister-in-law, who is not necessarily the culinary risk taker, a beliver. And the price (6 for $2.50) made it even better. In truth, I can't guarantee that the falafel will be always be made to order, but it was so good it seemed like a special treat. It was as good as a mother slipping you a cookie before dinner.

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Kufta Kabob

I'm not sure of the price, but I think it was less than $5. These two skewers of ground beef and lamb were excellent. In each bite I was able to taste the char from the grill which was intensified through its parsley, garlic and onions. I preferred to top them with the cucumber and yogurt mixture which was fantastic. The cooling effect works wonders on your palate. You may also find the alternate spellings kofta or kafta on other menus.

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Grape Leaves and Baked Kibbi

When you try sushi for the first time, everyone says you should try a California roll first to ease your way in. The same is true with grape leaves (also known as dolmas or wara' enab) when first attempting Lebanese food. Stuffed with lamb, rice, garlic, parsley and lemon juice, each grape leaf is carefully rolled. Then they are cooked in olive oil and steamed to perfection. Plumpness is always a determining factor in the amount of rice and meat is inside. These were somewhat skinny, but still very good. They were dense and tasty; a far cry from the flimsy and oily ones I had a few weeks ago. We paid $7 for a full pound. Important note: Excluding the Lenten-version, if your grape leaves don't have meat, then they aren't Lebanese.

Baked kibbi (also spelled kibbe or kibbeh) is another personal favorite. Shaped like tiny footballs, this is a combination of ground lamb and beef rolled with walnuts, onions and bulgur. Although not in this case, baked kibbi is usually served with yogurt. These baked kibbi were warm and scrumptious. A single order included four pieces ($6.99) and we devoured them almost immediately. I created small sandwiches by stuffing them into pita and topping them with tahini. They were not the best I have ever eaten, but they certainly were far from the worst.

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Meat Pie

We all agreed that these meat pies (aka sfiha) were slightly different than other meat pies we've had before. Generally, they are shaped in small squares with the same dough that it used in spinach pies and served in an open-face preparation. These were in a more traditional "pizza" arrangement. We ordered two six-inch meat pies ($1.50 each) which were cut into quarters. These were our least favorite of all of the items we ate. However, If this was the worst of the bunch, then other places must take heed.

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Cucumber and Yogurt

Many cultures have a condiment that is used as either a palate cleanser or cooler. As an example. Greeks use tzatziki and Northern Indians use raita. I love this condiment because it provides a textural contrast between smooth and crunchy which enhances most dishes it tops. This condiment is not to be confused with labneh which is a strained and thick yogurt that often accompanies grape leaves.

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Harissa Cake

Middle Eastern cuisine utilizes rose water in many different dishes. I can't stand it. To me, eating a food with rose water tastes like I'm eating women's perfume. It isn't for me. This cake (aka basbousa) was made with semolina flour, honey, butter, pine nuts and flavored with - possibly marinated in -rose water. It was perfectly moist and correctly prepared. The rose water overpowered the whole dessert and took away from the other ingredients. My father, a huge fan of rosewater, would truly enjoy this almond-topped dessert.

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Baklava and Lady Fingers

The baklava and lady fingers are very similar desserts in terms of ingredients and preparation. They do differ in presentation. Both are made with pistachio or walnuts, layered in phyllo and topped with honey or syrup. I didn't think I would have room for it, but I tried one of each. They were an excellent conclusion to the meal.

For the three of us, the total bill (including 2 Snapples and a soda) came to $40. This was one of the better culinary experiences and certainly makes my NY trip forgettable. If you are willing to take a trip to Paterson, it is definitely worth it.

Rating: Highly Recommended

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