This time, we opted for a slightly more upscale, not-so-kid-friendly, but not uber-fancy spot. We chose an Italian restaurant in Rahway, NJ. As previously mentioned (see Cubanu 3/17/10), this city is on the verge of turning itself around. I was recently turned-on to a deli that serves the most unbelievable chorizo-tacos around. More on that another time. Tonight's review is certainly one for the gastronome.
Luciano's is a place where we've previously dined and thoroughly enjoyed it. In the initial visit, our party was fortunate enough to have been seated by the fireplace. While some found the heat overbearing, I expertly positioned myself at the table so, for me, the ambiance was simply delightful. This time we were sat in the opposing dining room, without the dragon's-breath hearth adjacent to our two-top.
Spinach and Cheese Fondue
After being served the traditional fresh bread, our server took a drink order. For our appetizers, we decided on the spinach and cheese fondue ($8). It came served in corning ware fondue pot and focaccio crostini surrounding it. Truthfully, the bright green of the dish makes it aesthetically hesitant. Nevertheless, any trepidations were dismissed once we tried it. I was pleased that there was grainy residue from the spinach and that the cheese was melted perfectly. I can appreciate their personal touch of using focaccia versus a standard french bread as the base for their crostini.
Ricotta Gnocchi
Perhaps it's my naievete and culinary inexperience, but I expected an alternative flavor profile with the ricotta gnocchi with bolognese ($17). While it did achieve the anticipated lightness (comparable to potato gnocchi), it did not stand out. I got the "I've had this before" sense. It was as if someone simply took stuffed shells of manicotti and presented it in different form. Using the same ingredients in an alternative presentation did not yield something new and exciting, which was disappointing. Most disheartening was their bolognese sauce. Typically, bolognese is a Ragù made with wine and milk or cream. It can be thick and also velvety smooth. The sauce that was served on this dish was basically just vodka sauce (similar base ingredients but with vodka) with ground beef in it. This created an imbalance to the dish which I felt weakened its authenticity as both an Italian dish and the restaurant's uniqueness. And while my wife and I agreed that this was nothing special, I was satisfied with the dish.
Horseradish Crusted Filet
Despite being significantly less of a risk taker than me, she took a partial leap ordering a filet crusted with horseradish ($29). I was impressed she took this chance and she felt the reward. Upon trying her perfectly prepared medium rare, I noticed that great care was taken to put symmetrical grill marks on the steak. The anticipated contrast found between the seared edges and the chewy interior was present and excellent. Furthermore, I found that the grill marks had even been made on the end that had the horseradish topping on it; an indication of attention to detail. I really appreciate that.
Spinach
The sauteed spinach ($5) was excellent. We tend to order this side dish at Italian restaurants and steakhouses due to the abundance of garlic in the preparation. We found that this dish was as good as you will find. The spinach was not mealie or grainy, a characteristic all too common in poor preparation. The garlic infused it well, and it was tasty.
Warm Banana Bread Pudding
For dessert, my wife ordered the Warm Banana Bread pudding ($7.50). It was incredible. This dessert was comparable to the Whiskey bread pudding we ate in Pittsburgh (see The Carlton 2010) which we absolutely loved. The warmth and generally mild flavor of the bread contrasted well with the sweet of the ice cream and tenderness of the bananas. Again, the attention to detail is noticeable because you can actually taste the depths of flavor here. The caramel drizzle not only accentuated the taste but also added flare to the refined presentation.
My dessert was the Mixed Fresh Berries, Tahitian Vanilla Crème Anglaise And Raspberry Coulis. If photo wasn't completely horrid, you would share in an absolutely elegant presentation. It was served in a light crisp shell and as fresh as can be. The cream was just delicious and the fruit was fresh and delicious. The pomegranate sorbet was a nice touch, but I usually find that particular fruit too tart. This time was no exception, however the other ingredients in the dish did well to balance it out.
Overall, this experience was excellent. We were thrilled that this experience was as consistent as the last. Luciano's is not a highly upscale joint, but we think it qualifies as a "nice" dinner.
Rating: Highly recommended
No comments:
Post a Comment