Casa Seabra Restaurant

It is disappointing when you eat at a restaurant you believe is very good, only to discover that there are others that serve so much better versions of that same food that it turns out the first place stunk comparatively. Such is the case here.

I work in an area where Portuguese food is in abundance and therefore, I frequently dine on the cuisine. I am in no way an expert on Portuguese food, but I've eaten a variety of the dishes, so I think I have a handle on the correct flavors and techniques that are commonly used in the cuisine.

Portuguese food has its roots in Mediterranean cuisine and is strongly influenced by Spanish cooking. It utilizes corriander, parsley, tons of garlic and saffron among others. Rice and seafood are a huge staple in the culture and economy. All of these factors are a formula for culinary success in my book.

Seabra's Armory and Restaurant in Perth Amboy, NJ has many positives going for it; reputation, extensive menu and ambience. Located on Raritan Bay overlooking Staten Island, this former World War 1 and 2 naval ammunitions depot was restored beautifully. The armory is actually home to two locations under Seabra ownership; Casa Seabra Restaurant and Seabra's Armory Banquet Facility. Both are kept in excellent condition, which adds to the incredible ambience of it.

Until we sat down, I was unaware that they served rodizio. In the interest of good journalism, I ordered it not only because I enjoy it, but to compare it to previous experiences (see Rio 22 - 8/24/09).

That being said, it may be unfair to compare Seabra's to Rio 22 (now called Rio Rodizio) because the latter is not technically a Portuguese restaurant. They are strictly Brazilian barbeque and sushi. Additionally, Rio overlooks one of the most dangerous and congested highways in New Jersey, so the exterior location is an aesthetic tragedy.

My three friends each ordered paella ($23 each). Historically, paella (also spelled paelha) is traditionally a Spanish dish from the Valencia region of Spain. Served in large gray pots, this casserole is a seafood combination of lobster, clams, mussels, shrimp and scallops with chicken, pork and Portuguese sausage. Two friends ordered the paella Valenciana and the other was Marinara (also spelled Marinheira) which is the seafood only version. Both are served in yellow, saffron rice.


Paelha Valenciana


Paelha Marinara

Both paellas were excellent. As the dish is prepared, the individual seafood ingredients manage to absorb the flavors of the rice and stock, while maintaining their own integrity. The smaller shellfish were very well prepared. Surprisingly, they held up their individual flavors and moisture better than the lobster. I found that the lobster was slightly overdone. Perhaps a touch of butter would have basted the exterior just enough to evoke the flavor one would expect. The rice upheld a subtle "starchness" which was fantastic. The saffron, which can be a rather assertive flavor, was not overused and restrained enough so that it provided balance to the dish.


Rodizio Side Dishes

Where Rio 22 utilized sushi to appeal to a larger clientele, Seabra's focuses on a more precise Portuguese cuisine. Seabra's provides a more authentic rodizio starting with its side dishes. Collard greens, the palate-cleansing fried banana, French fries and lightly battered onion rings.

Rio 22 failed in that the skirt steak set the bar and the subsequent meats were not as good. Seabra's had more meats that were excellent rather than just one or two. In this case, the sausage, filet, sirloin, and short ribs were all tremendous.

The short ribs were utterly delicious; fall off the bone, juicy and flavorful. I suspect that any self-respecting churrascaria should certainly offer something like this. Even when the meat fell off the bone, the individual pieces kept crispy ends from where it was charred from the heat.

Filet wrapped in bacon is an expected offering in rodizio, but the novelty is beginning to wear off. I find that bacon takes away from the natural flavors of beef. I also find that in this preparation, the bacon never achieves a crispiness I look for when it's a side dish. When I removed the pork slices, I found the filet to be juicy, tender and delicious.

Part of their offerings also included chorizo (Portuguese sausage), which was fantastic. It was succulent and flavorful. I was very impressed. It was not overly spicy and the casing held it together beautifully. My friend reacted favorably to the sausage as well, which speaks volumes.

Turkey was dried out, as it often is. It could have benefited from a standard brine that would have kept the meat moist while still allowed for proper seasoning to draw out the flavor profile they wish to accomplish. The pork loin was the second meat that was delivered, while is was somewhat moist, I think it could have benefitted from an additional dash of seasoning.

Make no mistake, Rio 22 was good, but Seabra's is just better in every category. I did miss the gigantic carving knives that the servers at Rio used, but that had no bearing on the actual food itself. And, with two other locations in Jersey (both in Newark), Seabra's has established itself among top quality Portuguese restaurants across the state.

Following dinner we were treated to the pier that makes up the ambience for Seabras. Looking at all of the boats sleeping in their slips brought a very relaxing tone to the evening. As a big fan boats, I began to have delusions of a life at sea if I were independently wealthy. But as all things do, this too came to an end.

Dinner for the four of us, which included sodas, one glass of white sangria and 3 cappuccinos came to $160 after tip. I think forty dollars per person is reasonable.

Rating: Strongly Recommended

website: http://www.seabrasarmory.com/restaurant.html